[by X, essay under review]
We know little about Zublia Aggolia apart from her name. What we do know is that the woman depicted below fits the model of a kind of performed personality dubbed the “Circassian Lady” in mid-19th century America. As a type, the Circassian Lady became quite familiar in the United States, especially after the mid-1860s, when various performers in circus sideshows began playing this role. “Zublia Aggolia” was almost certainly a stage name, given that probably none of the women performing this part were actual Circassians.
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| Moore Brothers, “Zublia Aggiola,” carte de visite (circa 1870) collection of the author |
To begin with a question: Why the Circassian Lady? The fact is that the “Circassian Lady” or the “Circassian Beauty” was a feature of 19th century sideshows, but not the “Circassian Gentleman.” With the occasional exception of a “Circassian” child (see illustration below), all the photographs we find of sideshow Circassians are of women. Why?
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| Maker unknown, “Circassian” child, carte de visite (circa 1865), collection of the author |
The first thing to consider is the designation “Circassian” itself. Circassia is a part of the Caucuses, a mountainous region on the northeast side of the Black Sea. Circassia had been a battleground between the Russians to its north and the Turks of the Ottoman Empire to the south after Russia invaded the Caucasus, starting in the late 18th century. The Circassians were eventually overrun, and the Russians dispersed hundreds of thousands of them from their native land in the mid-1860s in what is now considered a genocide. It is a cruelly ironic twist of history that the “Circassian Lady” became an invented trope of circus spectacle in the United States at precisely the time that the actual Circassians were being ethnically cleansed from their homeland.
For a century or more before that sad fate, the Circassians had been an object of wider European interest. In 1775, the German naturalist Johann Friedrich Blumenbach (1752–1840) published On the Natural Variety of Mankind, a work that became one of the most influential texts in the emerging European science of race. Blumenbach was a specialist in comparative anatomy, and he initiated the division of human beings into five distinct “races” defined by region and color: the Caucasian, or “white” race; the Mongolian, or “yellow” race; the Malayan, or “Brown” race; the Ethiopian, or “black” race, and the American, or “red” race. It is a testimony to the influence of Blumenbach that even today we still use the term “Caucasian” to signify “white” people, and of course the color scheme of white, yellow, brown, black and red still has currency, too, although in altered forms. This is the case despite the fact that contemporary biological science has completely discredited Blumenbach’s theory of the origins and categories of human beings.
According to Blumenbach, the white race originated in the Caucasus region, and all other human races derived from this original source as degenerations of the Caucasian as the highest type. Here is the full context from Blumanbach’s On the Natural Variety of Mankind:
Blumenbach adds this footnote to the word “Georgian”:
From a cloud of eye-witnesses it is enough to quote a classical one, Jo. Chardin, T. I. p. m. 171. ‘The blood of Georgia is the best of the East, and perhaps in the world. I have not observed a single ugly face in that country, in either sex; but I have seen angelical ones. Nature has there lavished upon the women beauties which are not to be seen elsewhere. I consider it to be impossible to look at them without loving them. It would be impossible to paint more charming visages, or better figures, than those of the Georgians.’ (Blumenbach, Anthropological Treatises, 269)
In Blumenbach’s racial typology, then, the purest, most original “white” people came from the Caucasus region. Already in his 1775 text, Blumenbach specifically identified the Circassian women among the peoples of the Caucasus as the single most beautiful representatives of this pure and primordial “Caucasian” type: “Take, of all who bear the name of man, a man and a woman most widely different from each other; let the one be a most beautiful Circassian woman and the other an African born in Guinea, as black and ugly as possible” (Blumenbach, Anthropological Treatises, 363). In this passage, Blumenbach is discussing the fact that all human beings form part of the same species, because they can reproduce together, despite the external differences of appearance; but his off-handed valorization of the Circassian woman as the ideal of whiteness and the Guinean man as the anti-ideal of blackness could not be more evident; while he holds that they form part of the same species, he clearly considers the Guinean a devolution from the Circassian type, itself supposedly the most perfect form of the Caucasian.
One hundred years later, around 1870, this elision of the Circassian and Caucasian as the most perfect representatives of whiteness had taken hold of the public imagination in the United States. The image below presents a woman of the “Circassian” style who is labelled a “Caucasian”; bear in mind that all these titles are fictions applied to a person performing an imagined type:
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| Abraham Bogardus, “Caucasian Girl,” carte de visite, front and reverse (circa 1865), collection of the author |
Apart from the influence of the new science of race, another cause for this fascination with Circassians was that starting in the mid-1700s it had become a matter of dramatic and romantic lore that beautiful Circassian women were being sold in the slave markets of Istanbul and throughout the Ottoman Empire, to serve in the harems of the sultan and other potentates as the most desirable beauties of the realm. Lord Byron’s epic poem, Don Juan (1818–1824), contains this telling passage (Canto IV, verses 114 and 115) about a slave market in Istanbul:
But to the narrative:—The vessel bound
With slaves to sell off in the capital,
After the usual process, might be found
At anchor under the seraglio wall;
Her cargo, from the plague being safe and sound,
Were landed in the market, one and all,
And there with Georgians, Russians, and Circassians,
Bought up for different purposes and passions.
Some went off dearly; fifteen hundred dollars
For one Circassian, a sweet girl, were given,
Warranted virgin; beauty's brightest colours
Had deck'd her out in all the hues of heaven:
Her sale sent home some disappointed bawlers,
Who bade on till the hundreds reach'd eleven;
But when the offer went beyond, they knew
'T was for the Sultan, and at once withdrew.
The legend of the white “Circassian Beauty” being sold into sexual slavery had taken on such a life of its own that in the early 1860s P. T. Barnum, the great American showman and promoter of hokum, conceived the idea of buying a Circassian woman out of captivity in Turkey to exhibit in his wildly successful American Museum in New York City. In a letter of May 1864, Barnum authorized his agent, John Greenwood, Jr., to spend up to $5000 in gold each (a vast sum in that day) for two Circassian beauties if Greenwood could successfully infiltrate the slave markets of Istanbul to buy them without being detected as a Westerner.
Greenwood failed in his attempt, but that did not stop Barnum, who had no qualms about finding someone who could “pass” as Circassian to put on exhibition along with other remarkable individuals in his sideshow, such as Tom Thumb. Later in 1864, Barnum put on show someone he dubbed “Zalumma Agra” (“Star of the East”), a young woman who had come to his operation seeking work whom he dressed up in the invented costume that then became the model for the “Circassian Ladies” who then sprang up in circus sideshows all over the country. Zalumma was the first of several Circassians in Barnum’s shows, and even her name was his invention. The gallery below presents several views of Zalumma (variously spelled), a portrait of another of Barnum’s Circassians, Zoe Meleke (a made-up name again), and a group portrait of the “freaks” in Barnum’s Circus; note that all are white, including the “whitest” of the white, albinos:
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| H. R. Doane, “Zaluma Agra, Star of the East,” cartes de visite, two views (circa 1865), collection of Greg French |
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| E. & H. T. Anthony, “Zaluma Agra, The Star of the East, Now on exhibition at Barnum’s Museum” carte de visite, front and reverse, collection of Greg French (left) and the author (right). The US Internal Revenue stamps on the back of each image were required on photographs by law, from August 1864 to August 1866, to raise funds for the Civil War. Each is canceled with stamp that reads “Barnum’s Museum” and dated Apr. 26, 1866 (left) and Dec. 5, 1865 (right). |
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| Maker unknown, inscribed on reverse “Zoe Meleke, Circassian Lady, Born in Asia Minor,” carte de visite, front and reverse (circa 1865), collection of Greg French |
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| Maker unknown, Barnum’s Circus, carte de visite, front and reverse (circa 1865), collection of Greg French |
And so Barnum invented the Circassian Lady, or the Circassian Beauty, as a sideshow performer of a particular kind. The type included a number of key features: the woman must be pretty, or even beautiful, by Victorian standards; she would wear exotic clothing, generally more revealing than that worn by European and American woman of that era; she might display striking jewelry and other ornaments, such as strings of pearls or richly embroidered clothes. And the most telling feature of all: the big hair. This extraordinary hair-do was entirely Barnum’s invention, but it stuck as one of the defining markers of the “Circassian” woman, no matter what circus or sideshow put a Circassian performer on the stage: a huge mass of hair, washed in beer and teased to a frizzy cloud resembling what might remind someone today of an Afro from the 1960s or 1970s.
The carte de visite of Zublia Aggolia displays all of these features. Cards like this were sold at the circuses and shows and by promoters, the profits shared by the performers and the show owners. She wears a jeweled crucifix and pearl-studded, low-cut dress, and the characteristic hairstyle is unmistakable.
So now we are in a better position to answer our question: Why “Circassian Ladies” but not “Circassian Gentlemen”?
As Linda Frost has suggested, the “Circassian” woman occupied a very peculiar place in the 19th century imagination, a place that challenged the dominant classifications of race, gender, and sexuality. Because this strange position enticed the 19th century viewer to transgress these categories, at least in their imaginations while viewing the sideshow or in private while gazing at a photographic portrait, the natural place for this kind of performance was the strange and yet protected and circumscribed space of the freak show, pioneered so effectively by P. T. Barnum.
First of all, we have to take into account that the myth of the Circassian included several intersecting elements of overwhelming interest, if not obsession, to 19th century white Americans: race, slavery, and ideals of feminine virtue, beauty and sexuality.
The legend of the Circassian woman involved a provocative component for white Americans: the idea that the Circassians were the most primordial form of the white race, and therefore also the purest and most beautiful exemplars of whiteness, especially their women; yet at the same time, these Circassian women were subject to the slave trade of the Ottoman Empire. The idea that a white woman might be sold into slavery, and especially sold into a slavery that marked her as a sexual object in a potentate’s harem, was a matter of both moral horror and transgressive fascination to the white imagination.
That potent combination of horror and fascination was evident at least as early as the display of Hiram Powers’ statue, “The Greek Slave,” at the Great Exhibition in London in 1851. Powers was an American scupltor who worked in Florence, and his depiction of a white woman, stripped naked with only chains covering her genitals, about to be sold in a Turkish slave market, created a sensation as well as a tremendous controversy when exhibited.
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| L. Powers, “The Greek Slave” by Hiram Powers, carte de visite (circa 1865), front and reverse, collection of Greg French |
Greece was very much in the public’s mind at the time, for the country had fought a successful war of independence from the Ottoman Empire from 1821 to 1830. Europeans had sympathized with Greece not only for its being the font of Western civilization and its ideal of freedom but also in its resistance as a Christian nation against the Muslim Ottomans. Those interlocking themes of slavery, whiteness, Christianity and freedom resonated deeply in the United States, and when the sculpture went on tour there, it sealed Powers’ fame, despite the debates that the statue aroused.
Indeed, arousal was precisely the point of contention. Powers insisted that the nakedness was not offensive but rather elevating, that it was no incitement to lust but rather an instance of what he called an “ideal type,” a form that transcends the human body and symbolizes pure principles of human virtue. In the case of “The Greek Slave,” he meant to portray a Christian woman facing a terrible fate with faith, modesty, and fortitude. But there was no mistaking the meaning of that fate, even then: as a slave, her body would be at the disposal of her buyer, and it was precisely this fact that would be staring the statue’s viewers in the face as they stared, in turn, at her white granite body — or the many photographic reproductions of that body.
The idea of a woman being at the sexual mercy of her owner was not foreign to the imagination of the white public at the time: it was well known that slave-owners in the United States often entered into sexual relationships with their enslaved women, relationships that involved a range of coercion, almost all of which we would classify as rape today. Since the beginning of the 19th century, Thomas Jefferson himself had been rumored to have sired children with his slave Sally Hemings, who was herself the child of an enslaved mother and a white master — and the half-sister of Jefferson’s deceased wife.
As another example, in 1868, the English sculptor John Bell produced a sculpture entitled “The Octoroon.” Clearly influenced by Powers’ “Greek Slave,” Bell’s statue depicts an octoroon, that is, a person of one-eighth African ancestry, as a naked woman in shackles, perhaps awaiting the auction block, her modesty protected only by her inordinately long hair. It is worth underlining this use of hair as a marker of forbidden sexuality, for it turns up again with the Circassian Ladies, but in a more subtle form. Photographic reproductions of Bell’s statue circulated at stereoview cards in the United States (see below), which allowed viewers to get a three-dimensional sense of the figure.
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| Maker unknown, “The Octoroon” by John Bell, stereoview card (circa 1870), collection of the author |
This theme replicated itself in fiction, too. For example, in 1859, a play by Dion Boucicault called The Octoroon opened in London. The play tells the story of Zoe, the “octoroon” of the title: a person of one-eighth African descent. Zoe looks white and lives free on a plantation in the American South. The white nephew of the plantation owner falls in love with Zoe and seeks to marry her, even after she tells him the truth of her ancestry. In the British version, they do marry, despite the taboo (and the laws) against miscegenation, and they live out their lives together, but not before fending off another man who attempts to see her enslaved as a declared Black woman so that he can buy her as his own mistress. The play was a huge hit in England, but when it came to the United States, the ending changed: there is no marriage, and Zoe dies along with her lover in a final fiery cataclysm. For an American audience both titillated and panicked by the prospect of race-mixing, transgression of the taboo could go only so far before being sealed with disaster.
And so the very idea of the Circassian Lady played into an already well-established, if potentially explosive fantasy, of white women (or at least a white-seeming woman) subjected as slaves to the sexual whims of real or potential owners. It was an explosive idea because it raised questions about the assumptions that white people in the United States might have held about the supposedly natural inviolability of the white race when it came to slavery and sexual virtue: here were white women, supposedly from the stock of the purest and most beautiful white women, who were nevertheless no longer able to enjoy the certainty of freedom to which their race, at least in the United States, would have entitled them. Whiteness, then, might be seen as no longer a guarantee of liberty and mastery, and so the prospect of the Circassian Lady offered the subtle thrills of danger and ambiguity. Even more subversively, the very idea of white women as sexual slaves must have presented a titillating object to the imagination, at least for white men. The Circassian lady literally embodied a taboo.
This last point helps to explain the costume of the “Circassian Ladies” in the sideshow: their outfits were inventions, having nothing to do with the actual clothing of women from the Caucasus region. What the “Circassian” costume did do was invoke a certain Oriental exoticism, a hint of the harem and the seraglio. They offered the viewer an opportunity to view, and stare at, a sexualized white woman and to imagine her possible fate as a slave were she not “spared” it by appearing in the sideshow. (Although we must remember that this was almost always a fantasy: the “Circassians Ladies” were performers playing a part.) The costume did much to accent both exoticism as well as sexuality, by using strange cuts, fabrics, jewelry and embroidery, and by often by exposing arms, legs and busts in ways that would otherwise have been out of bounds for a white Victorian woman. How intentional this exposure was is evident in the portrait of Zublia Aggiola: in high magnification, one can see that the photographer has retouched the negative to accentuate the cleavage of her bust — something that would never occur in an ordinary portrait of a Victorian “lady.” But at the same time, at her throat, just above the bust, hanging like a protective talisman, lies a large, ornate crucifix, an item common to Circassian portraits. The crucifix also shows up in Powers’ statue of “The Greek Slave,” where it can be seen, along with her removed clothes, just beneath her hand on the post she leans on. Like the Greek slave of Powers, the presumed Christian faith of the Circassian Beauty puts into play another paradox: the sexualized Other who is nevertheless both contained and made virtuous by her deep faith, despite her terrible fate.
The charged ambiguity of the Circassian Beauty, straddling sexual transgression and religious transcendence, marks this type of person with a certain mystical value grounded in her freakish whiteness. This seems to have been even more accentuated in the case of some albinos, the “whitest” persons of all, who adopted the cachet of mystical powers, such as mind-reading, as a feature of their sideshow acts:
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| Obermüller and Kern, “Miss Millie La Mar, Mind Reader,” cabinet card (circa 1890), collection of the author |
Returning to the images of the Circassians, what might be particularly striking to the modern viewer, again, is the big hair, which looks so much like the “Afro” of the late 1960s and 1970s, then as much symbol of Black Power as a fashion statement. This association that we today might sense between the Circassian hair and the Afro may be largely an anachronism, but not entirely. We have to remember that the explosion of frizzed hair in the portraits of “Circassian” women was an entirely artificial effect, both cosmetically and culturally: it had to be created with beer shampoo and teasing comb; it had nothing to do with how actual Circassian women wore their hair. The untamed hair evoked exoticism; it served as a marker that this woman who looked in all other ways white was in fact something Other. This Otherness was suggested in other ways, too, not just by the clothing. It is remarkable that so many “Circassian” women’s stage names began with “Z”: the letter itself is largely foreign to English and American names — almost none begin with it. Furthermore, white viewers would have had one very striking point of comparison for frizzy hair: this was the hair texture they would attribute to Black people (even if African Americans then did not wear their hair in styles resembling the Afro). This is confirmed by the portrayal of other “types” in the circus sideshows of the period, such as this “Egyptian” (another performed persona):
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| Charles Eisenmann, “Zumiya the Egyptian, Age 20,” carte de visite (circa 1870s), collection of Greg French |
So here we land in yet another seeming paradox: the putatively purest, most primordial, most beautiful form of the white race, the Circassian, is constructed to share, however subtly, its signature feature — a wild mane of hair — with Africans. In this way, the purest “White” is made an Other — by associating it, however subconsciously, with the white Americans’ physiological stereotypes about Blacks. And we can account for this by connecting the dots: both African slaves and Circassian slaves were subject to sexual exploitation, even if the latter were supposedly rescued from that fate, and this is the point of contact that played so powerfully on white Americans’ imagination: wildness, even a contained and constrained wildness, suggested that the sexual exploitation was in some sense natural to the enslaved women’s own instincts, character, and desires. African women were routinely portrayed as sexually lascivious, and therefore in some sense willing and complicit in their sexual exploitation. Surely that is part of what was so titillating to the white male viewer of the Circassian Beauty as a type: her narrowly-avoided fate as a harem slave, her strange clothes, her exposed flesh, her half-mad hair all intimate an uninhibited, if restrained, sexuality.
And yet, at the same time, because the Circassian was thought to be the purest, more primordial exemplar of the white race, that may have led the white viewer to yet another thought: that the sexual fate and the sexual proclivities of the “Circassian Lady” (no true “Lady” then by Victorian standards because of these very proclivities) might just as well be those of any given “American Lady,” who must be, after all, the be racial descendent of the ancient ancestors of the woman on exhibit. And that, in turn, would suggest that the white American “lady” was, at bottom, in her unadorned, uncultured nature, no different from the Circassian — and so no different from the African. From there, the viewer — primarily the white male viewer — could contemplate a further question: whether the sideshow depicts an erotic truth that is or ought to be more than a sideshow in ordinary domestic life. Add to this the fact that the “Circassian Ladies” were no Circassians at all but ordinary American women costumed and frizzed to “pass” for a purely invented “Circassian” type, and the ambiguities rise to an even greater height: these transgressive women were not the Other at all but the white viewers’ own kind. The self as Other, and the Other as self: in this liminal zone, which one defines the meaning of whiteness, of freedom, and of acceptable sexual license?
But the very appearance of the Circassian Lady in the circus sideshow, alongside other human types designated “freaks,” must have blunted all such questions. P. T. Barnum perfected the sideshow as a form of exploitation and entertainment, imitated by hundreds of carnivals and circuses throughout the nation, that allowed the visitor to depart from a customary world of limits and expectations, but only in a temporary way, and in a context that marked the experience as decisively exceptional, questionable, and possibly fraudulent — in a word, freakish. The very nature of the sideshow allowed the viewer to displace any genuinely discomforting questions into the realm of ambiguity, where they could then be safely bundled up and forgotten, just as we today confront our fears in the safety of a horror movie or a roller coaster ride: as mere entertainment, a thrill to experience and then purge as at bottom unreal. Such adventures bring no lasting insight or transformation; quite the reverse, in fact: they tend to shunt a disquieting experience or question off into a limbo that has the effect of making it disappear from active reflection. In this sense, the sideshow served as an inoculation against genuine questions that if given a real voice might unsettle the prevailing categories and assumptions of human classifications such as race and gender. The sideshow therefore only exploited the ambiguities; it never truly challenged them, and the Circassian Lady never really allowed the Victorian world to call into question the dividing lines of race, freedom, and sexual self-possession that she embodied, if only as a performance of an imaginary human type.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Blumenbach, Johann Friedrich, and Hunter, John, The Anthropological Treatises of Johann Friedrich Blumenbach, trans. Thomas Benyshe (London: Longman, Green, Longman, Roberts, and Green, 1865)
Robert Bogdan, Freak Show: Presenting Human Oddities for Amusement and Profit (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1988)
Crane, Sylvia E., Greenough, Powers and Crawford, American Sculptors in Nineteenth Century Italy (Coral Gables, FL: University of Miami Press, 1972)
Frost, Linda, “The Circassian Beauty and the Circassian Slave: Gender, Imperialism, and American Popular Entertainment,” in Never One Nation: Freaks, Savages, and Whiteness in US Popular Culture, 1850–1877 (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2005)
Wunder, Richard, Hiram Powers: Vermont sculptor, 1805–1873 (Newark: University of Delaware Press, 1991)




















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